Pakistan: How Hindus are rebuilding a 1000-Year-Old Temple of Varun Dev that had been converted into a toilet

The current condition of Hindu temples in Pakistan is shocking, with Hindus themselves living as second grade citizens. Before the partition of India, many of these temples were bustling with activity, but now they are completely deserted. Some temples have even been demolished, turned into ruins. Despite the government’s constant neglect and the continued state sponsored exploitation of Hindus, however a few individuals are relentlessly working to restore and improve the state of these temples. One such temple is that of the Varun Dev Temple.

Located on the shores of Manora Island in Karachi, Pakistan’s largest city, the Varun Dev Temple is dedicated to Varun, the God of Water. Since Islamic invaders destroyed the inscriptions associated with the temple, there is no clear historical evidence regarding its construction. However, locals assert that the temple was built before the 10th century, making it over 1000 years old. It is said that around the 16th century, a wealthy merchant named Bhojomal Nainsi Bhatia purchased Manora Island from a Muslim resident of the Kalat district in Balochistan and took control of the temple. The exact history of the temple after this acquisition remains unclear, though it is believed that the temple was renovated around 1917–1918.

Some inscriptions are still visible in the temple, written in Devanagari and other scripts. One such inscription in Devanagari reads “Om, Varun Dev Temple” while another at the main entrance in Sindhi states, “Dedicated by the sons of Seth Harchand Mal Dayal Das in memory of their father.” The city of Bheeriya, located in the Khairpur district of Sindh, (Pakistan), is referenced here.

The Temple Was Used as a Toilet:

The dire situation of Hindu temples in Pakistan is evident in the fact that for a long period, the Varun Dev Temple was used as a public toilet. After the partition of India, the temple’s condition began to deteriorate as Hindus became a minority, and no one paid attention to the temple’s upkeep. As a result, the walls and rooms of the temple were used as restrooms by visitors to Manora Beach. This continued until 2008. 

Following the demolition of the Babri Masjid in India in 1992, the temple came under the scanner of radical Islamists. Most of the temple was demolished, and even the well in the temple courtyard was destroyed. Interestingly, despite the deteriorating condition of the temple, two Gurudwaras and a church on Manora Island remained intact. Sadly, the temple’s condition continued to worsen.

In 2008, Jeevraj, who looked after the temple, mentioned in his statement that when the temple was open to devotees in 1950, Hindus celebrated the ‘Lal Sai Varun Dev’ festival. By then, however, the rooms and premises were being used as toilets. He described this as a huge insult to the Hindu community. Jeevraj also wrote to the Manora Cantonment Board (MCB) about the temple’s ownership records but was informed that no such documents existed. An MCB official stated that since the temple was located in a zone under the control of the Pakistani Navy, the MCB had limited authority.

However, in 2008, local Hindus raised their voices against the desecration of the temple. As a result, the temple was cleaned, and restoration work began. The renovation is being carried out by local Hindus who are collecting funds on their own. Additionally, the U.S.-funded organization, AFCP, provided a financial grant of $25,000 (approximately ₹2,107,136) for the restoration work. Currently, the temple is in the process of recovery.

Current Condition

The situation of Pakistani Hindus and the Varun Dev Temple reflects the ongoing struggle for the preservation of Hindu places of worship. With the financial support from AFCP, the renovation of the temple has been progressing swiftly. The number of Hindu pilgrims from various parts of Pakistan visiting the temple has gradually increased. The temple has also been beautified with the installation of tiles. Recent photographs show the temple in a much-improved condition. Furthermore, a boundary wall has been constructed around the temple to protect it. However, some parts of the temple and the idols inside remain damaged. Still, with the continued efforts for restoration, it is expected that the temple will soon be in a much better state.

The Varun Dev Temple is located on the shores of Manora Island, near Karachi, Pakistan. To visit the temple from India, one would need to fly from Delhi’s Indira Gandhi International Airport to Karachi Airport. From Karachi, one can take a taxi to Manora Island. Since the temple is located near a beach, there are restaurants and hotels available nearby for food and lodging.

 

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